I have been reading your comments on problems whereby the boat temperature gauge over-reads when navigation lights are put on. I have tried to find the faulty earth without success.
Can I simply bring a new earth wire from the battery to a new busbar on the dash and remake all the earth connections to the instruments (including the temp gauge) from that busbar? Is there anything I need to be careful of in doing this and should this cure the problem?
Your help would be much appreciated.
Your proposed solution will work great. The only concern would be the additional ground wire connected directly to the battery. I’m not a big fan of small and large wires connected directly to the battery. The connection is either too tight for the small terminals or too loose for the large terminals. If you are connecting directly to the battery, I would either put a zip tie or tape around all of the wires that connect each post of the battery to ensure that all positives stay segregated from the negatives. An accidental ground wire touching the positive will cause an immediate fire.
Hope this helps,
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I purchased an old 1989 cruiser, a Regal 280 Commodore, and tripped the 20 amp dockside breaker while using a hatch a/c unit and an electric kettle. I have 30 amp service in the boat.
I reset the breaker and then the AC electric system worked for a few minutes and then went dead. Neither the dockside breaker nor onboard breaker tripped, but we smelled a burning smell. I immediately unplugged the AC system and looked behind the AC panel.
At the main breaker switch where the shore power comes in, I found the white wires melted and melting damage to the black wires. I can fix all the wires, but there is also some sort of capacitor that was wired as a jumper between the green and white wires and it is not in the wiring diagram of the boat. It looks like it has been burned out. I want to know what to replace it with, and then if this overall problem is something that points to the result of another problem or if it may have been some old wires getting warm and then touching.
I can replace everything as it was once I know what to put between the black and green wires, but don’t want to do that and then plug it in if there may be other issues that need addressing.
Thanks for your help.
The only connection in your panel between the neutral and ground would be a reverse polarity indicator. Instead of a light, some boats have an alarm. Some of the piezoelectric alarms look like capacitors.
Hope this helps
I need your assistance with my boat wiring.
I have changed trolling motor batteries in my boat and since, I have burned 2 twist plugs. My cables aren’t marked so is it possible I may have crossed them or is that something that would cause my dilemma.
What could be causing me to burn the plug? It has a 4 wire Marinco outlet.
On a 12/24 marine electrical system, wiring the batteries is critical. Use a meter (not a test light) to determine if the polarity is correct and the battery cables are correctly connected.
The circuit protection in the positive leads at the battery should trip before you burn up the plug. If you don’t have fuses or breakers at the battery, now is a great time to add them.
The guys at Manitou gave me your contact info last year for a boat wiring question.
You solution worked out perfectly. Now I have another question that I'm hoping you can answer for me.
On my 2006 Manitou Aurora, I have a switch that is wired up and it says
Acc on it.
My question is...
Is this switch basically just a spare switch that I can use or does it do something with the panel that I'm not aware of? I would like to wire up my depth sounder to it but I want to make sure I don't screw anything up first.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The options that the switch could control would be very obvious: livewell pump, courtesy lights, etc. It probably does nothing and is just a blank.
The easiest way to answer this question is to look at the back of the switch. There should be 3 terminals on it.
- Top right - ground for light inside of switch
- Middle left - power into switch
- Lower left - power to item
If the lower left terminal is open or has a short wire that leads to an open connector, then you should be all set to connect your depth sounder here.
Hope this helps,